Caridina Shrimp Care Guide (Singapore)

Caridina shrimp are freshwater dwarf shrimp prized for their patterns and colors (e.g., bee shrimp lines). In Singapore, they're popular because they look amazing in planted tanks, and breeding them is rewarding—if the tank is stable.

Most keepers aim for soft, slightly acidic water with low KH and stable temperature, plus zero ammonia and nitrite. Stability matters more than chasing exact numbers.

Deep guide: Shrimp tank water parameters in Singapore

Common causes include active substrate buffering behavior, KH changes, inconsistent remineralization, and large or irregular water changes.

Related: How to calibrate a pH test pen

Many keepers prefer RO/DI water + remineralizer for consistency. If using tap, test GH/KH and always treat chlorine/chloramine.

Bigger tanks are usually more stable. Many keepers start around the 30–60cm tank range for easier stability and temperature control.

Yes—filtration supports stability and biofilm. Sponge filters are popular because they're shrimp-safe and gentle.

Gear: 7 shrimp tank accessories that actually matter

Many Caridina keepers use active/buffering shrimp soil to help maintain lower pH, paired with RO remineralization for consistency.

Cycle until ammonia and nitrite are consistently zero and the tank is biologically stable; this commonly takes weeks, not days.

Start with a small group to improve breeding odds, but keep stocking conservative in newly-cycled tanks.

It depends on how cool and stable the room stays. In Singapore, many keepers use chillers or strong cooling strategies to maintain a safe, stable range.

They graze biofilm constantly and can be supplemented with shrimp food, blanched vegetables, and occasional protein.

Feed lightly and adjust to tank maturity and colony size; remove uneaten food to protect water quality.

Some fish foods work, but shrimp-specific foods make it easier to manage water quality.

Use a rotation: staple, biofilm enhancers, mineral foods, and limited protein—based on your tank's response.

Look for berried females (eggs under the abdomen) and increasing juvenile sightings over time.

Common causes include parameter instability, stress, diet imbalance, immature tank biology, or incompatible tankmates.

Usually no—if filtration is shrimp-safe and tankmates aren't predatory. Prioritize biofilm and gentle flow.

Many fish will eat shrimplets. If breeding is the goal, shrimp-only tanks are the safest approach.

Common causes are parameter swings, temperature spikes, ammonia/nitrite exposure, and failed molts from instability.

It's commonly associated with molting problems where the shrimp can't complete a molt successfully.

Molting is stressful; deaths after molting often point to instability (GH/KH/TDS changes), temperature swings, or poor tank maturity.

Healthy shrimp show consistent grazing, normal movement, steady appetite, clean coloration, and regular successful molts.